The mysteries of Argentinean malbec

TASTING NOTES
Our tasting of some two dozen Argentinean malbecs (and one Chilean) spanned vintage years 2002 through 2005 and yielded a handful of quality picks. Blends with under 70 percent malbec weren’t included in the tasting. Here are eight that made the cut:

Susana Balbo 2004 Mendoza ($26, Vine Connections): The reigning queen of Argentinean wine earns her reputation on what’s in the bottle. This latest release blends in 10 percent cabernet sauvignon, which helps bulk up its structure and aromatics.  Dark and tarry, with dried tobacco, nutmeg, leather and a raspberry overtone amid sweet licorice from 80 percent new French oak. Chewy and thick, with the presence of a smoke-filled room. For the budget conscious, Balbo also just released a 2005 young-vines malbec from her second label, Crios de Susana Balbo.

Kaiken 2003 Mendoza ($11, TGIC Imports): Pungent, with blackberry, tar and charcoal. Ripe and full, great for barbecue, with its fine, tapered finish that keeps gripping. Straightforward, but pleasing.

Mapema 2003 Mendoza ($18, Vine Connections): Big, brambly fruit, with cocoa and black plum. The tannins are hefty and mouth-drying. Truly requires food, but the solid fruit still comes forward.

Ben Marco 2004 Mendoza ($19, Vine Connections): The result of Susana Balbo’s husband, Pedro Marchevsky, trying to make a wine that shows off the terroir of Mendoza. Some drinkers might be thrown off by the floral, soapy notes from 12 percent bonarda (an aromatic Italian grape grown widely in Argentina), but it’s complex, with baked cherry and dry mineral character. Fine tannin on the end and a delicate, tapered finish demonstrate its finesse. The blend also includes 1 percent cabernet franc.

Bodegas Escorihuela 2004 ‘Don Miguel Gascón’ Mendoza ($11, Pasternak Wine Imports): This always-popular bottling shows well again. Smoky and dense, with black fruit and tar, plus a dollop of warm oak and slightly coarse tannins. All holds together nicely.

Viu Manent 2003 Single Vineyard Colchagua Valley ($23, various importers): The Chilean ringer in our panel, with 15 percent cabernet sauvignon, did quite well. Rich with pepper, graphite, dried mint, vanilla and dried branches. Layered with black fruit, and notable for its solid acidity and just the right amount of concentration. Finish had almost too much grip, a signal that it needs time to mellow.

Valentín Bianchi 2003 “Particular” San Rafael ($28, Quintessential): Sweet and full of licorice. Heavily oaked, but it’s smooth, with good concentration in its core and without going over the top as some other Bianchi wines did. Chewy, slightly grainy finish.

Gusto 2002 Mendoza ($24, Vine Connections): The Southern Hemisphere project of Guy Davis from Sonoma’s Davis Family Vineyards. In addition to 11 months in 50 percent new oak, this benefits from the extra years of age. Warm, with black cherry and a green-leaf note. Still packs notable fruit, though there’s a slightly acrid overtone in the finish.

MORE FROM FATHER'S DAY GUIDE

Father's Day Guide Section Front

Dad's day feast: Linguine & banana cream pie Surprise Dad with three wines for Father's Day Do manly men wear moisturizer? Sure they do Great gifts that'll keep your dad fit as a fiddle Need a great gift for Dad? There's still time Celebrate Father's Day with Martha's waffles Latest & greatest in online digital sharing Celebrate your papà with this Italian feast Russert writes of fathers' advice, love Treat Dad to breakfast in bed Father's Day Guide Section Front   Add Father's Day Guide headlines to your news reader: