Baja road trip, with kids

By Tom Bol

updated 7:44 p.m. ET May 4, 2006

"Wow! Oh my gosh! Cool! Awesome!" exclaims our son, Skyler, as we wind along the rocky cliffs above the Pacific Ocean near Ensenada, just south of San Diego. Huge waves crash along the beach, sending white plumes of sea spray into the hazy air. After two days of monotonous driving through mountains and the scorching Mojave Desert, this postcard view of the Pacific is a welcome sight. We crossed through the border sprawl of Tijuana into Baja and are headed south on Highway 1. Midway down the narrow peninsula, 500 miles to the south, are the chartreuse waters of the Sea of Cortez and Conception Bay, our final destination. But this Baja road trip is different. This time our five-year-old and his friends are along for the ride.

Like most parents, we had our concerns about taking a five-year-old to Baja. We weren't flying into a five-star resort decked out with air-conditioned rooms and pools with swim-up bars. Instead, we were bouncing down dusty, rocky dirt roads, miles from any hope of roadside assistance, and camping on the beach with the occasional scorpion or rattlesnake for company. And that is just what we wanted. My wife, Cree, and I had guided kayaking trips here for years, so we knew the truth of Baja travel. In reality, Baja is a gem in the rough, poised to become another hotel high-rise sprawl. So far only Cabo San Lucas, at the tip of Baja, has been inundated with tourists, Jet Skis, and golf courses. The majority of the peninsula is still a mix of sleepy towns, cactus forests, and crystalline ocean waters. If you are looking for a little adventure in your vacation, Baja is perfect.

We had mentioned our Baja road trip to friends, and they quickly jumped on board for the adventure. All told, we had five kids and seven adults, forming a colorful caravan of SUVs heavily loaded with kayaking gear bouncing down the pavement toward Baja. Driving 1,500 miles, crossing the border, and not having instant access to bathrooms can be interesting with kids. Our first stop in the Catavina Desert resulted in the "wilderness bathroom" concept, which became the norm on long deserted stretches of highway. What we hadn't foreseen was the potential hazards of desert bathroom breaks. No sooner had our clan of kids gone into the desert than we heard a yell, then a distant scream, and then another shout; virtually our entire group of youngsters had been poked, stuck, or cut on a cactus or sharp rock. After a quick first-aid session and some basic instruction on "bad plants" (anything with a thorn), we set off again for the warm waters of Conception Bay.

"Dad, look at that machine gun! Is it real? Can I touch it?! Wow!" Skyler blurts out the window while camo-clad soldiers inspect our truck.

We are stopped at one of the numerous military checkpoints on the drive, allowing the soldiers to search our cars for drugs and contraband. Drug trafficking into the United States via Baja has increased over the years, so the Mexican government has set up military checkpoints to solve this problem. While it looks intimidating, the soldiers we encounter are very friendly, especially when they see our kids. The children's attempts to speak Spanish with the soldiers add a humorous, friendly tone to the scene. After a few cursory questions, we are quickly waved through. For the kids, talking with real soldiers is widening their perspective of the world.

Tom Bol / Canoe & Kayak

On day three, after numerous "wilderness bathroom" breaks, 3,237 cardon cactuses (counting them is a great way to keep kids occupied), and one burro encounter, we crest a hill and descend toward the stunning beauty of Conception Bay, just south of Mulegé. Small gumdrop-shaped islands surrounded by vibrant green water punctuate the azure waters of the bay, like chocolate drops floating in a bathtub of Cool Blue Gatorade. Steep rocky mountains and tawny-colored cliffs line Conception Bay, dotted with endless towering cardon and less stately organ-pipe cactuses. Stocky brown pelicans, elegant coal-black frigate birds and torpedo-shaped blue-footed boobies soar through the skies, each searching for small fish using its own unique hunting strategy. This slice of Sonoran paradise will be our home for the next two weeks, and soon the long road trip from Colorado fades away.

Tonight, as the adults are relaxing on the beach with cool Pacificos in hand, the kids make the first of many exciting discoveries. "The water is green! The water is green! The water is glowing!" they shout.

We stroll down and realize that the kids are right. The water is bioluminescent, and any disturbance, from waves to splashes, creates an eerie green glow, reminding me of some radioactive experiment gone wild. Everybody takes turns throwing sand into the water for the best effect, which in turn leads to people jumping in and splashing. Before long, our entire group is frolicking in the dark ocean in the dreamy moonlight, like some crazy sect of bioluminescence worshippers! I can only imagine what anyone hearing us on the beach in the middle of the night would think. Crazy gringos!

"Crab! Big mamma crab! Oh my gosh, this crab is HUUUGGGGEEE!"

Tom Bol / Canoe & Kayak

Our first morning on the beach we awake to the "crab alarm clock." Skyler and his friends Taylor and Morgan have found something way more interesting than kayaking or snorkeling. Hermit crabs run for cover as our army of kids parades down the beach, searching for anything moving. One aspect of this trip we are enjoying is seeing everything through the eyes of children. Even the simplest activity provides hours of entertainment. Crab hunting is a favorite activity, and the occasional sighting of the larger swimming crab puts the kids in a frenzy. Add a little sugar to the mix, say grape soda and some chocolate, and the youngsters are wound up like Energizer Bunnies, busy for hours scouring the beach and mangroves for crabs and fish.

We are staying at EcoMundo, the perfect base camp for exploring Conception Bay. Greg and Tracy, the owners, have palapas (palm frond huts) for rent, along with kayaks, snorkel gear, and about anything else you need to enjoy the beach, including freshwater showers. EcoMundo is the perfect blend of luxury and wilderness for our group.

"We have a great location," Greg explains, while we rest in the shade of the main palapa. "You can begin multiday kayak expeditions right here, or go for day paddles in the bay. People like being able to sleep in a queen-size bed [in a palapa], and still wake up camping on the beach."

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