A stunning African wildlife adventure

Later, as the sun began to dip, we headed out again to enjoy a traditional "sundowner." Sitting in our four-wheel drive, Ronjore popped open his cooler, handed us each a gin and tonic, and we settled in to watched a group of elephants on the side of a hill eating the trees as the sun set.

Back at camp, we showered before joining the rest of the guests around the campfire where everyone shared stories of their day on the Mara. A huge dinner followed, and then back to the fire for more drinks.

The next day, we had a mission to finish our search for the rhino. Not far from the camp, nestled in the nearby hills, we came across the two white rhinos. They are watched by guards 24 hours a day to protect them from potential poachers. Finally, we had seen the Big 5.

Our vacation also took us to Selenkay Conservation Area in southern Kenya, where a camp has been established by Gamewatchers Safaris - the only camp in the entire 15,000-acre area. Porini Camp has just six tents, enough for only 12 guests, making it a very personal and unique safari, as only those staying there are allowed inside the entire conservation area, apart from the local Maasai.

We visited a traditional Maasai camp, where we were greeted by children in bright, colorful outfits, and the local Maasai women chanting a welcome song. The Maasai are nomads, so their camps are only temporary. But they are well-established, with solid homes built with locally sourced products, including cow dung. Inside their homes, a small fire burns to ward off the evening chill. The children ran around, playing, while keeping a watchful eye on the visitors.

Porini is near Amboseli National Park. As you drive toward it, you see snowcapped Mount Kilimanjaro standing at its edge, Africa's highest peak just across the border in Tanzania. It's a spectacular and imposing sight, dominating the skyline.

Amboseli has a rich wildlife population, but is most famous for its elephants. And there were plenty, spread out as far as the eye could see. We were also rewarded by spotting a jackal feeding two of its youngsters. Hippos played in the lakes dotted across the park. Striding across the park were thousands of wildebeest, along with giraffes, lions, buffalos, antelope, gazelles, hyenas, and of course the warthog.

After an entire day searching for wildlife, we returned to our camp.

Late in the day, our guide took us to a remote spot in Selenkay. He set up some chairs, unloaded the cooler, cracked open the beers and poured some gin and tonics. Content after a successful day on safari, we sat down, took a sip from our drinks and sat in awe as the sun began to set and Mount Kilimanjaro disappeared into the night.

If you go:

GREAT MIGRATION: The animals cross from Tanzania's Serengeti into Kenya's Masai Mara in July, then return in September and October.

GETTING THERE: There are daily flights from Mombasa and Nairobi to an airstrip in the Masai Mara. Camps that arrange expeditions to view wildlife can meet you there.

KICHECHE MARA CAMP: (011) (254) 20-891379. Three-night package, about $1,000 per person, double occupancy, including lodging, food and game drives.

PORINI CAMP: (011) (254) 20-7123129. Two-night packages, per person, double-occupancy, $585-$775, depending on the season, including lodging, food, and game drives.

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