HotmailBBQ goes beyond burgers and buns
Chef David Kamen of the Culinary Institute of America says backyard chefs are becoming more adventurous with different types of grill techniques
 Ben Fink
| David Kamen of the Culinary Institute of America |
BBQ used to mean one thing: Hot dogs and hamburgers cooked on an outdoor grill. But David Kamen, an associate professor at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., says American backyard chefs today are experimenting with different barbecue techniques. Kamen, who contributed to the institute’s new cookbook, “Grilling: Exciting International Flavors from the World's Premier Culinary College,” says they’re slow-cooking meats, smoking meats, and making desserts on the grill. We caught up with Kamen to ask him about the latest BBQ trends and what he likes to throw on the grill. We also got the recipe for his favorite grilled dessert — Grilled Pound Cake with Coffee Ganache.
Q: Why is BBQ so popular in the U.S.?
A: There are two reasons. The first is the perception that is it healthy. Americans today are nutritionally aware. In the wake of the Atkins’ craze, we’re being careful of carbohydrates. Grilling is a cooking method that doesn’t require fat, and it is a way of rendering away a lot of fat. So it has a healthy aura.
The second thing is the bold flavors. One of the trends that we’re seeing in the food world is bolder, stronger, richer flavors. And grilling is a great way to capture that flavor. Grilling uses intense direct heat and what that does to all foods — not just meats, but also vegetables and fruits — is browns them. And with fruits and vegetables, we see caramelization. The heat is so intense, it creates dramatic, dark browning, and that’s where a lot of flavor is developed. When we grill we get more of a smoky, charred flavor than we can in a sauté pan or an oven. You can’t get that high of a heat in a sauté pan or frying pan.
Q: What are the latest trends in grilling?
A: Once upon the time, especially in the Northeast, BBQ meant getting a charcoal grill and cooking hot dogs and hamburgers. I think people are realizing that’s there a lot more to it than that. People now are slowing down the cooking method. BBQ is something you cook very slowly. That’s the difference. Another trend is using a lower heat or indirect heat; having the coals on one side and the food on the other side.
Q: What does lower heat do?
A: In order for a tough piece of meat to get tender, you have to cook it slower. Traditional southern BBQ involves cooking ribs, brisket, or pork shoulder. Those are typically less tender items. To get them tender, you have to cook them more slowly. And people are experimenting more with smoking. People are realizing that it’s not very difficult — you throw a handful of wood chips on the fire, and you get that smoky flavor going.
Q: What about grills? Is one type better than another?
A: The most important consideration for a grill is the actual grill — the actual rods or cooking surface. The rods should be made out of heavy-duty cast iron, because cast iron gets very hot and holds the heat. And that gives your food a really good sear.
Q: Should a consumer look for special labeling?
A: No, but when you’re looking at grills at Home Depot or your local garden center, look inside and see if it has a heavy-duty cooking surface. Manufacturers won’t boast about it, but it’s important. Usually they talk about whether it’s fueled by gas or charcoal, or whether it’s made of stainless steel. Stainless steel is OK for the outside, but it won’t give you the heat transfer you need for cooking in the inside. It won’t give you the same crusting and charring and flavor.
Q: Are gas grills better than charcoal?
A: That’s personal preference. Charcoal will give you more of a smoky flavor. Gas will have a more neutral one.
Q: What tools do you need?
A: A pair of tongs, a long pair, and a metal spatula. Some people use a fork, but we frown on forks. They can poke holes in your food and then you’ll lose that all important juiciness.
Q: What’s your favorite BBQ?
A: I use a charcoal grill, a Charbroiler. I like to do something like jerk pork, jerk tenderloin, or jerk pork chops.
Q: Why pork?
A: Pork is great BBQ meat; it’s naturally fatty and more forgiving on the grill, so it lends itself more to BBQ.
Q: What do you drink when you have a BBQ?
A: I’m an iced-tea drinker. Beer is the typical drink with BBQ. Some wines that go with the smoky flavors are gerwertztraminers and rieslings. They’re light, but sweet. The sweetness and fruitiness goes well with the bold, smoky flavors that you get from BBQ foods.
Q: What about desserts on the grill?
A: One of my favorites is pound cake with a coffee ganache. It’s an old favorite of mine. When I was a kid, I’d toast a slice of Sara Lee pound cake, and then I’d put Betty Crocker fudge icing on top. So I like to toast a nice pound cake on grill. You could use Betty Crocker icing, but the coffee-flavored chocolate sauce is a nice complement. It’s a comfort food.
INGREDIENTS
Pound Cake with Grenache
Pound Cake (makes two cakes)
Coffee Ganache (makes three cups)
Pound Cake:
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Prepare two 8-inch loaf pans by spraying them lightly with cooking spray or lining them with parchment paper.
2. Sift the flour, baking powder, and salt together. Set aside.
3. Cream together the butter and sugar by hand or using the paddle attachment of an electric mixer until very smooth and light, about 3 minutes. Add the eggs in 4 separate additions, scraping down the bowl between each addition and mixing until very smooth.
4. Stir the flour mixture into the creamed butter mixture by hand or on low speed until the batter is evenly blended. Do not overmix.
5. Fill the prepared loaf pans 2/3 full (or measure out 2 pounds of batter into each prepared loaf pan for the most even distribution).
6. Bake until a skewer inserted near the center of a cake comes out clean, about 1 hour.
7. Let the cakes cool in the pans for a few minutes, then transfer to wire racks to cool completely.
8. Cut the cake into slices and serve, or wrap and store whole cakes in the freezer for up to 1 month.
Coffee Ganache:
1. Stir together the instant espresso and boiling water until smooth. Set aside.
2. Combine the cream and the corn syrup in a heavy saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the espresso. Pour the mixture over the chocolate and let sit, covered, for 2 to 3 minutes. Stir until the chocolate has completely melted and the sauce is very smooth.
3. Keep warm until ready to use, or let cool to room temperature and store in a container with a tight-fitting lid in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. Reheat chilled sauce over very low heat on the stovetop or in the microwave until warm enough to pour easily.
Grilled Pound Cake with Coffee Ganache:
1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glowing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
2. Grill the Pound Cake slices until well marked on both sides of each slice and the cake is warmed throughout, about 3 to 4 minutes on each side.
3. Serve the grilled cake topped with the Coffee Ganache, whipped cream or ice cream, and toasted hazelnuts.
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