A cure for bad chardonnay

TASTING NOTES
We taste plenty of so-so wines, but sometimes a tasting assignment is a true pleasure. Chablis, for instance — because even mediocre Chablis is still way better than most chardonnay. Given the problems with the ‘03 vintage, we actually found that many standard-issue ‘04s surpassed premier cru ‘03s, which are also on the market now. If you can’t find one of the wines listed, your wine shop should still be able to steer you to a decent bottle. Unless it comes in a three-liter jug, in which case … run!

Christian Moreau 2004 Chablis ($18, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Takes a little while to open up, but then it’s vibrant, with granite notes and a hard mineral edge. Tart fruit curls around the edges of that mineral core, and extends into an impressively long finish. A true food wine, with clean flavors and great balance. The ‘03 premier cru “Vaillon” isn’t bad either: not enough acidity in its core, but layered, with crisp edges and a crunchy mineral tone.

William Fevre 2004 Chablis “Champs Royeaux” ($19, Cliquot, Inc.): Full-bodied, with a cool-stone minerality, ripe apple, lemon and a grassy note in the mix. Balanced, clean lines and a lingering, tangy presence that tapers to a finish with a slight bitter bite.

Louis Jadot 2004 Chablis ($22, Kobrand): This basic bottle from one of Burgundy’s biggest negociants was surprisingly good. Steely, with clear lines and all the right notes in place, if a bit heavy on the sulfur. It’s got perfect ripeness, without too much weight, and a long, focused finish.

Domaine Laroche 2004 Chablis “Saint Martin” ($30, Remy Amerique): A special bottling made from a parcel named for Chablis’ patron saint. Weighty lemon and fig, with bright floral notes in the background. Steely up front, with a bit of flint and fresh fruit, and a lingering, tangy finish. You feel the weight again at the end. A bit lush, but not overly so. Bottled in screwcap — a growing trend in Chablis — and way better than the basic Laroche ‘04.

Louis Moreau 2004 Chablis ($25, Paterno Wines International): A full nose, built around tart apple and hard, smoky minerality. On the delicate side, but with a racy, expansive finish and a weight that shows up on the back end. Sort of sneaks up on you.

Domaine Gilbert Picq 2004 Chablis ($19, Polaner Selections): A crisp wine built around aromatics of wet, flinty minerality, with some scents of damp soil. The mineral notes dominate, though a delicate tart-fruit profile expands on the finish. Starts quiet and delicate, but grows as you drink it.

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