Bicycling America

By CALVIN WOODWARD

updated 12:22 p.m. ET March 22, 2006

WASHINGTON - The best way to start a cross-country bicycle trip is to pretend you're not doing it.

Convince yourself you are embarking on a series of day trips. It will do no good to anticipate the Rockies while still smelling the salt air of the Atlantic, or to think about the East if leaving from the West.

One rest stop to another, one day at a time, one state before the next. That's the essential mind game. It will all add up to a journey exposing you to staggering landscapes, the kindness of strangers and abilities you didn't know you had.

Many who bicycle recreationally dream of going the distance. Few do it, largely because of the time commitment. You need close to three months - more if you want to smell the roses. That's why cross-country cyclists usually fall into two categories - those taking time off before college, and those whose kids have just gone off to college. Getting that much time in prime working and family-raising years is tough for others.

Once you set aside the time, you must overcome the myths and make a plan. Here are some tips.

COST: A few thousand dollars will do if you rough it. Plan on $4,000 to $5,000 if you hope to spend most nights in a (cheap) motel. Don't skimp on the bicycle; count on $1,200 at least, on top of trip costs, for a genuine touring model.

FITNESS: You don't need to be Lance Armstrong. Although I commute regularly on a bicycle, 40 minutes or more a day, I hadn't ridden more than 50 miles in a single day before I crossed the country last summer. Nor had I ever done two long rides back to back.

So I hurt more than fitter bicyclists at first. But I felt stronger by the day and found my rhythm within two weeks. Ideally, though, train beforehand and do some rides loaded down with everything you'll take.

FEAR: A third hurdle is the fear that it's too dangerous out there. Most of my route was on amazingly quiet roads, but shoulders were often skimpy or nonexistent. Excessive caution is the best survival skill; if you are new to bicycling, hone traffic and safety skills.

One harrowing stretch in northern Virginia took me hours to go five miles on a twisty, busy road with no shoulder and fast traffic. I darted from one driveway to the next. But much of my journey was on the TransAmerica Trail, where most drivers are accustomed to seeing bikers. Overall, I had remarkably few close calls with cars.

As for my interactions with people, their generosity, encouragement, openness and just plain friendliness was the most astonishing aspect of the trip. Everyone who crosses the country comes back brimming with stories of these encounters.

Even so, bad apples can show up in the most splendid orchards. You're forced to make snap judgments of strangers. I met many wild-looking characters with big hearts. But one dude who started taking drugs after I'd put my tent up in his yard prompted me to leave in a hurry in the dark as he grew more paranoid.

For many reasons - weather warnings among them - a cell phone is essential safety equipment. Keep it charged and be aware when you are out of cell range.

A bright, lightweight rear flashing light is also a major safety boost. Some riders also want a full-power headlight, but that was not worth the weight for me; instead I brought a small flashing front light to help drivers to see me at dusk. That wouldn't be sufficient for night-riding.

Theft was rarely a concern on my route, but a route through cities might require a heavy-duty lock. I brought a lightweight, easily busted cable lock and rarely used it. Most grocery stores will let you park inside while shopping.

Beware of thunderstorms; take note of shelter as you pass, in case you need to turn back. And stock up on food and water if you're not sure what's down the road. Towns with one store that closes early are common.

EMOTIONS: Another hurdle is the emotional challenge. How far out of your comfort zone can you go? Can you get by with lousy coffee for days? If the only motel ahead is full, can you sleep under the stars? Can you stomach cold canned beans? If riding solo, can you keep your own company? How lonely can you stand to be?

Whether alone or with someone you love or like, you are guaranteed to have a meltdown or two along the way, unless you are an as-yet undiscovered human life form. This means irrational blowups, cursing the ground you are rolling on, wanting nothing so much as to jump in a car, or feeling grotesquely sorry for yourself. I was lucky - at such moments, I met people who believed in what I was doing more than I did.

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