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Tale of two reefs
We’d planned on going to Ball’s Pyramid, a renowned rock formation about 15 miles off the main island, or to nearby Admiralties or Malabar, but we were grounded by the weather. I was happy returning to Ned’s Beach — I felt four dives just barely touched on its possibilities. Brian assured me that the diving got “much, much better out a bit.” I wondered out loud why more people don’t beat a path to this diver’s haven. Though my trip to this lovely outpost was too short, it rose to the top of my must-do (again) list.
I asked Brian about the kind of diver who makes it out to Lord Howe, and he said it was “90 percent Australian, very few Americans.” Brian also said that he’s still exploring the possibilities of Lord Howe, which became a world heritage site in 1992. And with only 400 visitors allowed at any one time, it’s likely to stay pristine while you save your pennies to get there, and it’s not likely to be crowded when you arrive. During the few days I spent on the island, I was the only diver besides Brian.
The next day Ian Hutton, the pre-eminent expert on Lord Howe’s flora and fauna, took me on a hike through the temperate rain forest. Birds are Ian’s specialty, and I learned and saw more during that few hours than I’d ever have been able to on my own. We were followed by currawongs and found a rare Lord Howe woodhen. To find these protected land birds, you clap your hands loudly. The woodhens react to the noise as if you’re an intruder and squawk fiercely to warn you off. Then they wander out and try to stare you down with their bright red eyes before scampering back into the bush.
Lord Howe has been called Australia’s most beautiful island, and I’d be hard-pressed to argue. It almost doesn’t seem real, and even the longtime residents still sense that bit of magic. But, truth is, I’m also hard-pressed to find a place more appealing than Australia — even in the rain.
After a while the weather I’d happened upon was becoming funny. I’d arrived in Australia during the dry season. I’d been here before during this time of year, and all I’d seen and known of the Australian winter was light fluffy clouds and calm seas. Clear water. Little wind. I even tried saying it out loud once during the trip. I walked out on the balcony of the Shangri-La in Cairns and spoke to the sky: “Light fluffy clouds and calm seas. Clear water. Little wind.” I’d apparently been reading too much Harry Potter, since I thought that just such an incantation was the only thing necessary to change the weather.
“I’ve never seen it like this,” everyone said in that cheerful Australian manner. I turned on the TV and, sure enough, even weathermen were saying it was unheard-of. A massive high-pressure system had settled over Queensland and, like me on all my adventures in this remarkable country, it was reluctant to move on. Some things are clearly beyond my control. But despite the rain, the Australians reveled in a keenness for life that is always contagious and inspiring. Swept right along with them, so did I — and soon the rain was meaningless.
I sadly boarded the plane home, gripped by what has become a familiar yearning to simply find a way to stay in this always surprising and remarkable country.
Special thanks to the Spirit of Freedom (spiritoffreedom.com.au); Tourism Queensland (destinationqueensland.com); Australia Tourism (australia.com); Qantas Airways (qantas
.com); and the Shangri-La Hotel, Cairns (shangri-la.com/cairns).
As the official publication of the PADI Diving Society, Sport Diver is the magazine divers turn to each month to find out what’s going on in their world. Sport Diver is the ultimate source for up to date information on dive culture, equipment, travel, training and PADI Diving Society activities.
© 2006 World Publications, LLC
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