If you go:

SILVERTON: Reservations required for Silverton Mountain skiing: http://www.silvertonmountain.com or (970) 387-5706. Town of Silverton: http://www.silvertoncolorado.com/ or (866) 675-6900. Silverton Magazine: http://www.silvertonmagazine.com/.

GETTING THERE: The ski area is a five-minute drive from the town of Silverton, located at 9,305 feet in the crater of an extinct volcano, surrounded by towering whitecaps. You can't get there without driving over a mountain pass, which also means you can get stuck there if there is a snowstorm. Nearest airports are in Durango, 45 miles away, or Montrose, 60 miles away. From Montrose, drive through picturesque Ouray, another well-preserved Victorian mining town known for hot springs and ice-climbing. In summer, the famous Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railway runs to and from Durango.

Silverton is 360 miles from Denver (I-70 West, US 50 East, 550 South); 400 miles from Salt Lake City (I-15 South, I-70 East, US 50 East, US 550 South); and 265 miles from Albuquerque (I-25 North, 550 North).

GETTING AROUND: The town of Silverton, set up in a compact grid, is very walkable. But you need a car, preferably a four-wheel drive, to access Silverton ski area and for day trips to Ouray, Durango, or more conventional skiing at Durango Mountain Resort.

LODGING: Several small hotels in Silverton offer nightly rates of $45-$150. The largest historic hotel, the Grand Imperial, dates to 1883 and has a bullet lodged in the wall - evidence of Silverton's wild past as a mining town full of saloons and brothels. The Canyon View, a newer hotel, is comfortable, reasonable and pet-friendly, with dog treats in the room.

DINING: The Explorers Club - which provides uncooked steaks, fish or vegetarian fare that patrons grill themselves, with sauces and seasonings from the bar - is among the more unique spots in town. Other options include Pasta la Vista, the Silverton Brewery, Kendall Mountain Cafe, the Gold King Dining room at the Imperial Hotel, the Brown Bear Cafe, the Chattanooga Cafe, Pride of the West, Mobius Coffee and the Cow Palace cafe.

THINGS TO DO: For those who can't handle Silverton Mountain's extreme runs, Kendall Mountain Recreation Area - offers beginner and intermediate skiing, with a rope-tow lift, at just $7 ($4 for children), sledding, ice skating, snow cat ski tours and ice-climbing, as well as walking tours of brightly colored Victorian buildings.

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