By John Frenaye

Travel columnist

updated 12:43 p.m. ET Nov. 18, 2005

Hong Kong is probably the most energetic city in the world. It’s got the bright lights of Vegas, the hustle of New York, the swank of Rodeo Drive and the fantasy power of Disney World all rolled into one vibrant city. It is the gateway to China, and was recently returned to China after a long history as a European trading center and British crown colony.

While a lot of Hong Kong’s historical past has been destroyed by unprecedented modernization, the city has not lost its essential character. Crowded, exuberant, busy and relentlessly enterprising, it is a destination to absorb rather than explore. On my first visit to Hong Kong, I found it has a curious effect on Western travelers: The longer you are away, the stronger the call to return.

WHAT TO SEE
The city is divided into two main sections — Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, which is attached to mainland China. Between them lies beautiful Victoria Harbor, one of the busiest harbors in the world.

A trip to Hong Kong is simply not complete without a trip up Victoria Peak, or simply “The Peak,” on Hong Kong Island. Views from the top are nothing less than spectacular and are equally breathtaking day or night. A ride up in a taxi offers an interesting peek into living on Hong Kong, and the century-old Peak Tram is a relaxing way to get back down. While there isn’t much to do up on The Peak, there are a few tourist shops and one or two very decent restaurants.

The Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island is worth a look, as it is home to “Asia’s largest seated outdoor Buddha statue” (not to be confused with any other position or location). After climbing the steps, you’ll have breathtaking views of the mountains climbing from the sea. The Buddha itself is larger than life, and the monastery affords a sharp look at life as a Buddhist monk.

A short drive from the monastery takes you to an old fishing village called Tai O, a great place to see old China in action. While I expected a quaint fishing village, this was a bustling mini-city with small outboard motorboats darting among the houses and stores, which are built on stilts. But aside from some modern conveniences, life here is as it was years ago. There are villagers peddling their wares (usually fish) on the streets, and mothers maintaining homes for their families.

At one time, Hong Kong was one of the best places to go for first-rate merchandise at bargain prices. Unfortunately, West has met East and the bargains are not so great any longer. Still, the emphasis on shopping in Hong Kong is incredible — it is a hobby there. Electronics are still well-priced, but stick to the larger stores as many of the independent shops in Kowloon, especially on Nathan Road, and are run by triads-China’s age-old mafia.

Shopping plazas are everywhere in Hong Kong. Nathan Road in Kowloon, often the first stop for shoppers, offers bargain goods, souvenirs and luxury items. Causeway Bay, on Hong Kong Island, has more upscale brands and foreign imports.

But for a unique shopping experience, you must sample the markets. Be sure to bring your bargaining skills. My son was able to negotiate jade stones for his entire third-grade class in the Jade Market, which is located at the junction of Kansu and Reclamation streets. The market offers loose jade as well as ornately carved sculptures. The Temple Street Night Market kicks into life in the late evening and offers table after table of cheap clothing, pirated CDs and video games, food stalls, and little trinkets. On the south side of Hong Kong Island is Stanley Market. This, the most popular market with tourists, offers all the souvenirs you can handle along with several very good antique shops. Stanley is also a great area to explore; it has several temples, and many good restaurants and pubs.

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